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The Plain Dealer - Italy on Ice - November 13, 2002

Article by Douglas Trattner

  Ever since Bernardo Buontalenti created gelato for the court of Francesco de' Medici in 1565, Italians have been blissfully scooping the chilly delight from paper cups with small wooden spoons. In Italy, gelato acts as both social lubricant and internal air-conditioner on those sultry Mediterranean evenings after dinner and well into the night.

  It is 8:30 in the morning and Valerio Iorio is pouring a gallon of fior di latte, or "flower of the milk" into a stainless-steel Italian-made gelato machine. He's working in the shiny new basement of La Gelateria, his gelato shop at Cedar Road and Fairmount Boulevard in Cleveland Heights.

  Iorio, co-owner of Valerio's Ristorante in Little Italy and Osteria di Valerio & Al in downtown Cleveland, is beginning his long and lively day the same way he always does: making gelato and drinking his thimble of espresso.

  Gelato may be regarded as Italian ice cream, but Iorio is quick to point out that the two are as different as Calista Flockhart and Anna Nicole Smith.

  "We start with just whole milk, sugar and water," he...

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